THE HAPPY WANDERER: OAKLAND

Oakland has plenty to offer travelers

YOU’RE PLANNING A getaway. You see yourself having incredible adventures, capped off with elegant dinners and electrifying nightlife. You’re thinking Costa Rica, Bora Bora — maybe New Zealand. But before you book globally, think locally, because this year, it’s hip to stay home.

Once the long-suffering step-sister of San Francisco, Oakland is finally grabbing the spotlight for chic restaurants and nightlife. Cool new venues like Levende East in Old Oakland are energizing parts of the city that used to shut down at dusk. In the 1870s, Old Oakland was the heart of town, with grand Victorian hotels built for travelers coming in on the Transcontinental Railroad. Today, it’s part of a renaissance that includes a vibrant Friday Farmers Market and a plethora of popular restaurants.

A few blocks away, in Uptown, uber-trendy clubs and eateries are drawing an eclectic mix of hipsters and after-work professionals. A perfect example is Café Van Kleef, where an animated crowd fills the bar almost nightly, spilling out onto the sidewalk by 6 p.m.

Rockridge continues to shine with celebrated spots like À Côté, where the long queues for dinner testify to its popularity. And in Montclair Village, chef/owner Henry Vortriede has his own style of comfort food (along with killer blackened brussel sprouts) at The Montclair Bistro.

But food isn’t the only thing that should draw you to Oakland. Consider a hike with a llama. On an outing offered by East Bay Regional Parks a few years ago, I led my buck-toothed friend “Freckles” along a dusty tree-lined trail in Roberts Regional Park. Contrary to what you may think, he was not the spitting image of an old boyfriend. He did, however, make some odd nasal noises.

While the llama trek may be an Andean-like adventure, the Oakland hills have parks that are reminiscent of other faraway places. Sibley Volcanic Regional Preserve reminds me of Ireland, with its velvet green crests and vast, sweeping views of the mountains and sea. In winter and spring, nearby Redwood Regional Park is so dense with vegetation, it resembles a rain forest. All this is just minutes from downtown Oakland, and as nature tends to be — it’s free.

So, too, is a stroll around the nation’s oldest wildlife refuge, Lake Merritt. And while the bird-watching is good, the people-watching is even better, with regular sightings of Oakland’s celebrity former Mayor Jerry Brown. Speaking of sights, along the shores of this great urban lake is a magical place that some say was the inspiration for Disneyland.

When Walt Disney came to Children’s Fairyland in 1954, he was so impressed, he hired the director away at double her salary. Fairy tales still come alive here and so do innovative ideas, like Fairyland’s summer overnights for families to pitch tents and see puppet shows under the stars.

Oakland is a mariner’s paradise and Lake Merritt is no exception. At the boathouse, you can rent sailboats and other nonmotorized vessels for a leisurely cruise. But for something really different, book a ride in an authentic Venetian gondola. With a handsome gondolier at the helm, you feel regal as you glide across the placid waters. All around you are the skyline and city, and the lights of Lake Merritt — like a romantic string of pearls.

Then there’s a nautical adventure that is more interactive; kayaking on the Oakland Estuary. California Canoe & Kayak has dozens of colorful kayaks in the water at Jack London Square. Take one out (instruction is available) and tour the waterfront that Jack London made famous in his adventure novels. You can even see a replica of his cabin in the square next to one of his favorite watering holes, Heinhold’s First & Last Chance Saloon. Like a scene from John Barleycorn, Heinhold’s is still serving ’em up — frothy and cold.

On my way to Yoshi’s World Class Jazz House near Jack London Square the other night, I watched the fog roll in — a little gift from our famous sister to the west. Its clammy fingers tried to pull me toward it — toward the city that always seemed to steal the spotlight. “Not this time,” I thought to myself. This time I’m opting for Oakland.

Political expert offers take on election

I LOVE CHATTING over coffee. It’s not the caffeine I crave as much as the conversation. So I was really excited to match wits, last week, with fellow news junkie Joe Tuman. Joe lives in Oakland and is an expert on campaign rhetoric, often appearing on network news shows. I couldn’t wait for his take on Obama and Hillary.

“Barring another eruption, (i.e. a major gaff) I’ve done the math,” he says, and “Clinton can’t make up the delegate count.” Even a fight on the convention floor won’t be enough to save Hillary, he feels. That leaves Obama and McCain for the presidency and Tuman likes Obama’s chances. “I look at McCain and think Bob Dole,” he says, adding age will be McCain’s unspoken Achilles’ heel.

But what about the rhetoric? What kind of guy makes a living studying that? Tuman says it goes back to childhood, when he saw John F. Kennedy give a campaign speech in his hometown of Turlock.

“I saw how rhetoric gets crafted for a particular audience,” he says, remembering how Kennedy used turkey references to warm up the crowd of Nixon supporters in a town where the primary industry was poultry.

But enough about politics. Tuman can talk about other things. He’s an avid runner and a coach for a group that runs, just for fun, every Thursday morning. The fact that they meet at 6 a.m. shouldn’t deter you. If you want to join his group, just show up at the Piedmont High track. Oh — and if you want more rhetoric, get his new book “Political Communication in American Campaigns” from Sage Press — available in bookstores everywhere.SHOWING GRATUTUDE: It’s refreshing to uncover acts of patriotism and kindness in this day and age. That’s why I’m giving Julie Orman at Piedmont Network Chiropractic a plug. A Montclair resident, Dr. Orman is offering free chiropractic care to Iraq War veterans who come home with post traumatic stress.

“There is no popping,” she explains, “but rather a spreading of ease throughout the body as the way of healing.”

It sounds good to me and should be a welcome relief for the anxious young vets returning from war.

AROUND TOWN: Talk about a rebirth! Just months after J&J Hardware disappeared into the night, literally — the empty Montclair space has been transformed into a cool, new nail salon.

“We do nails differently,” owner Uyen Nguyen laughs, drawing a parallel between hardware nails and the kind with which she works. I had a “mani-pedi” the other day and fell in love with the new salon that Nguyen named after her daughter, Isabella. She gutted the space and redesigned it in a breezy blue nautical theme that reminds her of going to the beach in her native Vietnam. More important, this place is immaculate. Tools are sterilized in an autoclave, buffs and pads are disposable and the footbaths use the latest anti-fungal technology. The salon has a fun side, too. You can sit at the bar and have tea, watch TV or even have a glass of champagne (BYOB and over 21, of course) while you get your fingernails done. If you ask me, Isabella is a great addition to the neighborhood.

CLUTTER BUSTER: Springtime is garage sale time and Joaquin Miller Elementary School has one of the biggest with its annual yard sale on May 3. But who has the time to go through all their closets and storage for donations? Instead of a chore, Nina Johnson suggests you look at this as an opportunity to lighten your load. Her business, Simply Organized, is working with Joaquin Miller supporters to clean out their clutter in kitchens, garages and other areas. The school gets cool treasures and homeowners get more space. It’s a match made in heaven.

THE HAPPY WANDERER – AUSTIN

Austin is awesome Texas town
Contra Costa Times 4/11/2008

I’ve got four cowboy hats and a pair of Tony Lama boots that still have rodeo dirt on them. I guess that makes me a country girl — and it’s probably what draws me to Austin.

Not that you have to be country to like the eclectic capitol of Texas. In fact, locals call it the place where hippies meet techies and believe me, there are plenty of both.

But like most Texas towns, there’s a strong influence of cowboys and cattle — so much so that the University of Texas mascot is the Longhorns.

“Look how fast I can flash it,” bragged my college-bound daughter, who’d just been admitted to UT. She was practicing her “hook em’ horns” hand sign so she would be ready.

I can’t believe she actually used it; not once but dozens of times as we flashed “horns” to folks all over Austin. It was like a secret handshake that opened doors for us — even getting us into a couple of clubs on 6th Street, Austin’s famed music row. Not unlike Nashville, bar after bar hosts live music on 6th Street with everything from hard rock to blues. And while most places require you to be 21, there are a few 18 and over clubs on the strip that cater to students.

There’s also a four diamond hotel on 6th Street, which caters to the upper crust crowd with the fat wallet. The Driscoll is one of those places that you just stare at in envy, wishing you could take some of your kid’s college fund and spend the week there. Built by a cattle baron in 1886, the Grand Lady stands stately across a full city block, with her marble floors, gilded ceilings and warm wood and leather. Just having breakfast in the lobby café (The 1886 Café and Bakery is known for its fresh pastries and iron skillet meals) allows you to dream about what it would take to amass that kind of wealth.Then reality hits. “These are the free speech steps,” our chatty tour guide points out, as we follow the herd of new students on a tour of the University of Texas. “Y’all may be offended by what some folks say,” she smiles innocently, “but on these steps, they have a right to say it.” No one sounded off that day, at least not while we were there, but a man across campus was giving an outdoor lecture on Bible prophecies with a small but supportive crowd around him.

My daughter and I walked across the street and grabbed the Armadillo (the city’s free small bus and trolley system) to our hotel. Mass transit is everywhere in Austin, with the “Dillo” and a vast fleet of buses that get you around town for a buck or less.

And while Austin isn’t a big town, it’s big enough to have 11 La Quinta Inns. We stayed at the one near the Capitol, and it proved to be central to many of the city’s hot spots. I also liked the fact that La Quinta had a big heart in the aftermath of hurricanes Katrina and Rita, hosting hundreds of homeless families for weeks at a time. Their hospitality even extends to bats, after one of the winged creatures was found sleeping in the manager’s office. The little guy now has his own bat house on the property outside.

It’s not that far fetched, considering perhaps millions of bats live under the Congress Avenue Bridge nearby. It’s an amazing site to see them fly in formation at dusk, looking for bugs. Squadrons of pregnant bats shoot out of the underpinnings and darken the sky, creating an eerie, if not completely awesome sight. Austin even has a bat hot line between March and October, which you can call to get updates on projected bat fly times.

Bats aren’t the only colorful creatures that call Austin home. Politicians descend on Austin in odd years (no pun intended) and the state capitol is within walking distance of the university. It’s an architecturally stunning building and free tours are offered on a regular basis. Nearby is another free must-see attraction, The Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library and Museum. It’s the only free presidential library and museum in the country, as stipulated by Johnson, himself, before he died.

That’s it in a pecan shell — a roundup of one of my favorite Texas towns. The buzz on Austin is true, as far as I can tell, and I’m just beginning to get to know her.

Decisions loom for college-bound daughter

MAYDAY! MAYDAY! It’s known internationally as the call for help. In our house, it’s also a deadline. May 1 is the date that our college-bound daughter must decide on a school. Her whole future depends on it, of course, and perhaps the future of the entire planet.

At least that’s how it seems. Paralyzed with indecision, the e-mails and letters keep coming — from not one, but 10 different universities. They all want to welcome my daughter to her new home.

“I may have applied to too many schools,” she revealed recently. “I have too many choices.” It may have been my fault, too, for encouraging her to apply to some of my own personal favorites.

Take Montana State University, for instance. My old alma mater has generously offered a package of cowboys, skiing and scholarships. But the one thing they can’t promise is a buffer between my daughter and her mother’s “weird college friends.” Bozeman is, after all, a small town.

Then there’s Fordham. My daughter can’t remember why she applied here, but it’s New York so it’s in the running.

The University of Pittsburgh wasn’t her idea either, but she does have a favorite uncle there. However this must be weighed with the fact that her feet would freeze in flip-flops.

The University of Hawaii has the promise of paradise with sunshine and surfers, but can she come home when she wants to? There’s also the prospect of finding geckos on her dorm room walls. In other words, the eeewwww factor.

UC Santa Barbara, on the other hand, may be too close to home. Still, there’s sunshine and the beach and, as Bob Barker used to say, “the price is right”.

That leaves, in no particular order, my daughter’s current “fav five”: USC, Tulane, University of Texas, University of Georgia and Arizona State. If all things were equal, (i.e. cost, class size, career opportunities) Georgia would probably win the competition for my brilliant child. She’s dreamed about Georgia since she took a Girl Scout visit there years ago.

But the University of Texas has Austin and its renowned music scene. It’s also been rated the safest campus in the country.

It’s tough, too, to turn down Tulane. It’s a super school that exudes southern charm and is generous with its scholarships. Ditto for Arizona State, which mapped out its financial aid package months ago, making it seem almost painless to pay for college.

Finally, there’s USC — my dream school. I emphasize my because this was the university I wanted to attend back in high school. In those days, parents had parameters and mine was in miles. I had to stay within 1,000 miles of my home in Minnesota. Montana State turned out to be great, but I always wondered what life would have been like as a Trojan. Would my connections have catapulted me to someday be president of NBC? Would I have married a movie mogul or, even better, been one myself? That’s not to say that I’m unhappy today. My life is rich, if not my bank account.

In the end, it’s not about me anyway — as my daughter reminds me. This is her college experience. Thank goodness. If I had to decide, I’d be a wreck. Or maybe I’d send out a “Mayday” and hope someone would come to my aid.

Downtown restaurant a catalyst for change

I’ve lived in Oakland since 1988 but never really knew downtown until last fall. Taking a job at 19th and Franklin opened my eyes to the city’s renaissance — and I’m excited.

My husband and I went to the hip new Levende East in Old Oakland the other night. Montclair restaurateur Ben Doran opened this place a few months ago at 827 Washington St. and it oozes cool, with an eclectic crowd of hipsters and after-work professionals chatting it up as they sip specialty cocktails.

Doran calls his food world fusion and the menu reflects this vision. We thoroughly enjoyed dunking our bread in the Peruvian dipping sauce; tasting each offering on the exquisite Italian cheese plate and sharing a savory side of mac n’ cheese with smoked apple wood bacon.

I kept thinking to myself “this place is so hip.” Even the bar looks like a piece of art with each bottle of liquor bathed in soft light. It turns out Doran’s partner, another Oaklander, did the design. Kiri Eschelle spent months studying the space and did a great job of making it seem open and airy and at the same time, welcoming.

Of course, the location is just one of the reasons Levende East is so popular. Chef Arren Caccamo is another. His food (he also cooks for the partner’s other restaurant, Levende in San Francisco) is masterfully prepared and really, you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu. Doran does a great job, too, of picking the wine, with more than 20 selections by the glass. And the cocktails, I’m told, are “to die for,” with names like Pear Bliss (pear infused vodka, pear liquor, amaretto and a cinnamon sugar rim) and Pink Amour (brandied cherries, Plymouth gin and St. Germain Elderflower liqueur).

Levende East is one of the catalysts for change in downtown Oakland. It’s revitalizing the city’s nightlife and helping to brighten the image of our town. I, for one, plan on dining there — a lot.

WORKING TOGETHER: Neighbors in North Oakland call it their “field of dreams.” It’s the new baseball field they built with hard work and almost $300,000 in donations from the community.

“It’s still a diamond in the rough,” says Oakland Tech varsity baseball coach Eric Clayton, using a clever metaphor. “But it’s a jewel compared to what we’re used to,” and his team looks forward to playing it home games on the field at 45th and Telegraph.

As a sidebar, Oakland’s urban neighborhoods have produced some of history’s greatest ballplayers, including Joe Morgan, Frank Robinson, Dave Stewart and Rickey Henderson.

E-MAIL BAG: Readers are talkin’ turkey again. An e-mail from Piedmont’s Anne Nunno says a brazen bird all but challenged her cat the other day, strutting toward kitty on Sunnyhills Road.

“My cat puffed up to three times her size with bottlebrush tail,” writes Nunno, who thought the turkey actually looked quite elegant. Minutes later it flew up to the roof of a neighbor’s house to take in the view, leaving pussy below to regain her composure.

On another topic “… reader Adelaide Rule has a suggestion for making Oakland a more energy-efficient city. She suggests tweaking the traffic lights to move cars more smoothly through intersections.

“I live off Mandana, and going down towards Lakeshore, and then on Lakeshore, Lake Park and onto the freeway, one cannot make a single light,” she vents.

Rule says rather than spend the money for an unwanted stop light in Montclair, it should be used to hire a decent traffic engineer to “band” the city’s existing traffic lights.

LOCAL CELEBRITY: Actor Clyde Bruff (“The Commander”) has just finished filming “Milk,” the story of the assassination of San Francisco Supervisor Harvey Milk. He says working on the movie was “a real trip.”

“Lead Sean Penn as Harvey Milk is phenomenal throughout,” he writes, but the highlight was getting to exchange barbs with director Oliver Stone. Bruff, who lives in Montclair, is a member of the Screen Actor’s Guild with a resume as long as my arm. He’s played everything from a boxer to a bowler and does dozens of character voices. But I’m sure he’d tell you his real claim to fame was having his photo next to mine at the old Montclair Malt Shop.